Padded Metalwork Embroidery: Rose Pouch

THL Lucia Thaylur

rose pouch

Inspiration:

This piece was inspired by the replica of a crown for the Worshipful Company of Girdlers which was made by The Royal School of Needlework in 1946. The original crown was made during the 17th c. but was destroyed in WW II. (Saunders, p 114) Since we don’t know when in the century it was made it is entirely plausible that it could have fit into the SCA acceptable time frame. There are several extant pieces of high relief metalwork embroidery which can be dated within the scope of the SCA time frame so the technique should not be dismissed as out of period. Other extant pieces using this technique include:the Shield –shaped panel, c 1500 Bayerischesmuseum, Munich (Wark, p 59), St George and the dragon (Schutte p 179), Seal purse of Elizabeth 1, 1560 (Saunders, p. 112) and a winged bull (Drobna,Zoroslava , p 60)

Materials

The pouch is embroidered on black dupioni* silk and uses a variety of metals including guilt check purl, guilt pearl purl super , gold twist and both rough and smooth purl. The variety of metals can also be documented as having been used in period.

The Process:

Laying the base
The padding for the base of raised metalwork can be accomplished by layering either wool shapes or a variety of threads. For this piece, I chose to use layers of wool and worked each petal separately.

Applying the metalwork
Each piece of metal is custom cut and applied using a satin stitch technique. Once an area was filled in I added the pearl purl outline. I used slightly waxed silk thread for stitching.

Finishing the pouch
Hand made the buttonholes then sewed the edges of the pouch together. The lining is linen.

*Dupioni silk:
It is beyond the scope of this paper to debate the controversy concerning the use of dupioni, but I believe the silk reliquary pouch from Augustiner Klosters dated between 1278-1589 at least justifies it.

reliquary
(Image from Banks, p. 175)




fragment
(Image from Banks, p174)




Books with pictures of high relief embroidered metalwork:

Drobna,Zoroslava . La Riqueza del Bordado in Checoslovaquia. 1949. SFINX_Praga

Lemon, Jane. Metal Thread Embroidery: Tools, Materials and Techniques. 1987.
BT Batsford, Ltd. London

Saunders, Sally. Royal School of Needlework Embroidery Techniques. 1998.
BT Batsford, Ltd. London

Schutte, Marie & Sigrid Christensen A Pictoral History of Embroidery. 1964.
Praeger, Inc USA

Wark Edna, Metal Thread Embroidery. 1989 Kangaroo Press Pty Ltd, Kenthurst


Books detailing high relief metalwork techniques:

Hinda, Hands. Church Needlework: A Manual of Practical Instruction. 1909.
GJ Palmer. London

Lemon, Jane. Metal Thread Embroidery: Tools, Materials and Techniques. 1987.
BT Batsford, Ltd. London

Saunders, Sally. Royal School of Needlework Embroidery Techniques. 1998.
BT Batsford, Ltd. London

Wark Edna, Metal Thread Embroidery. 1989 Kangaroo Press Pty Ltd, Kenthurst


Works cited:

Banks, Johanna. "Die Mittelalterlichen Textilfunde aus der Latrinengrube des Augustiner Klosters in Freiburg in Breisgau" in Tidens Tand Nr. 5, 1992 Archaeological Textiles in Northern Europe. Report from the 4th NESAT symposium 1.-5. May 1990 in Copenhagen. Denmark

Drobna,Zoroslava . La Riqueza del Bordado in Checoslovaquia. 1949. SFINX_Praga

Schutte, Marie & Sigrid Christensen A Pictoral History of Embroidery. 1964
Praeger, Inc USA

Saunders, Sally. Royal School of Needlework Embroidery Techniques. 1998.
BT Batsford Ltd.

Wark Edna, Metal Thread Embroidery. 1989 Kangaroo Press Pty Ltd, Kenthurst


SPECIAL THANKS
To THL Femke de Roas for introducing me to metalwork a few years ago, West Kingdom Needleworkers Guild for endless inspiration and THL Cassandra for once again making her library available to me..



Last updated: 8/17/2008